KILCHOMAN 'MACHIR BAY'

The last of the eight Islay distilleries we've sampled is also both the newest and the smallest, both by a wide margin. After pushing the green button in June 2005, Kilchoman (kill-HO-muhn, silent c) became the first new distillery on Islay in 124 years (Bunnahabhain and Bruichladdich, both 1881). Its location on Islay's western shore also makes it the westernmost distillery in all of Scotland currently releasing whisky (although Abhainn Dearg on the Isle of Lewis will eventually claim this distinction once they get rolling).

In 2015, the independently owned Kilchoman Distillery produced a mere 150,000 L/year (up from 90,000 in its early years). To put that in perspective, the other seven Islay distilleries average 2.25 million L/year, Ardbeg being the next smallest at 1.1 million L/year. Initially at 90,000 L/year, production capacity supplanted even wee Edradour for a time as the tiniest distillery in Scotland (until Daftmill and Loch Ewe showed up that is).

Kilchoman, "Islay's Farm Distillery", was initially conceived as a fully self-sustaining field-to-glass distillery: growing and malting their own barley, distilling, aging, and bottling on site, the first of its kind in Scotland. No chill filtration, no artificial caramel coloring, no industrial yeasts (this is something I know nothing about). There's even a mouse-catching pig named Lucy instead of the traditional distillery cat.

Much like Bruichladdich's tao of terroir, only local resources were to be used. However, for practical reasons their locavorous focus had to be tweaked slightly. 100 tons of Publican two-row barley are grown at Rockside Farm (near the titular 'Machir Bay', and recently purchased by Kilchoman), sown in May, and harvested in September. The barley is malted on Kilchoman's on-site floor (one of only 6 in Scotland), dried with locally sourced peat to 20-25 ppm phenol. Supplemental (er, 70%) malt from Port Ellen Maltings is also brought in, peated according to Ardbeg's 50 ppm specifications.

The Machir Bay (NAS) expression sitting pretty in my Glencairn glass is Kilchoman's flagship malt (along with their newest expression, Sanaig, which will also be in continuous release). Matured in Buffalo Trace bourbon casks and first fill sherry casks, and clocking in at a respectable 46% ABV, the malt is named for the nearby "most spectacular beach on Islay".

KMB's ultralight color could easily be mistaken for your sister's pinot grigio, surprising given the sherry cask finish. However, the nose quickly will clear up any confusion on that front. Based on the percentages of the home grown malt and Port Ellen malt used, the finished product works out to between 41-43.5 ppm phenol. This is a Laphroaig-caliber level of peat, but without its trademark forensic aroma.

I found the strong phenolic character quite cleansing actually, refreshing even. Sinuses now cleared, aromas of citrus zest, vanilla extract, and buttermilk biscuits seem to waft in with crystal clarity alongside all that peat and smoke. Even the smoke seemed elegantly restrained somehow. Not really getting a lot of spice or oak, although I'm not sure it needs it. I would buy this again for the nose alone.

Deceptively light on the palate at first sip. Vanilla and butterscotch candies at first, then the fruit opens up. Peaches, strawberries, all the good juicy summertime ones. Sherry showed up fashionably late, bringing raisins and a few tannins to the party. The understated peat smoke on the palate is still a marvel, speaking softly and carrying a big stick. The palate is youthful, there's a tangible freshness to it, which is an interesting contrast to the BenRiach 15 Tawny Port Cask Finish I tasted 15 minutes earlier.

The finish was long and sturdy, never a hint of bitterness from its 46% ABV. A trace of sherry notes carry a drying oxidized tannic character. A wisp of oak was noticeable when the last of the fruit pealed away. Lastly, the smoke remained behind to turn off the lights...Aaah.

Given the Kilchoman Distillery's proximity to the Atlantic coast, I was expecting some maritime character, but no brine or seaweed notes ever showed up. That's really the closest thing to a complaint I have about the Machir Bay expression, perhaps also because its name also conjures a seafaring expectation. Still, this is a dynamite malt for such a young distillery.

I've had light Islay malts before. Bunnahabhain in particular tickled my fancy despite its minimal peat influence. Caol Ila uses the same source as Kilchoman for its malt, Port Ellen Maltings, yet its lightness seemed out of kilter to me overlayed with so much heavy smoke. Bruichladdich is also making an effort to use as many local resources as possible in their malts; yet none of these match the balancing act between heavy peat and delicately nuanced lighter notes that I just tasted in Kilchoman Machir Bay. Score one for the little guy.

Overall Grade: 93/100, A-

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