I finally had a chance to taste some (three) new single malts this past weekend. Like Bruichladdich, this first malt was from a distillery previously unfamiliar to me, but was consistently name dropped in every article I came across. Also raising my eyebrows was its 5-star rating from the notoriously persnickety reviewer for Malt Madness, one of only 5 distilleries (out of 93) to earn his high water mark, and the only one of which I had yet to sample.
"It was with delight, while sworn to secrecy, that I witnessed BenRiach gaining its independence, when a team lead by an experienced and infectiously enthusiastic Billy Walker acquired the Distillery. This independence will allow BenRiach to unlock its secrets and bring its fine and surprising malts, officially to the market in their natural state for the first time. There cannot be a single true lover of whisky who will not rejoice because of it." - Jim Murray, author of the Whisky Bible
With a significant volume of leftover stock from before its mothball years at its disposal, the rebranded/reinvigorated BenRiach Distillery was able to produce an impressive array of expressions from the onset. BenRiach Distillery Company Ltd. has since been able to acquire Glendronach and Glenglassaugh under their ownership umbrella. In 2012, they pulled the tarp off their old onsite malting floor, and now process Optic and Cellar varieties of two-row barley to their personal malting specifications (occasionally with heavy peat...in a Speyside?!).
Benriach has released so many alternative expressions, there are a whopping nine versions just for this 15 year age-statement: Pedro Ximenez, Tawny Port, Sauternes, Madeira, and Dark Rum cask finishes, as well as three Single Cask Releases '1999 (Cask 9150)', '1999 (Cask 8687 Oloroso Sherry Finish)', '1998 (Cask 7633 Triple Distilled Pedro Ximenez Sherry Cask Finish)', and a peated expression, 'Solstice'. I was oblivious of this variety until I later asked to see the bottle - 'BenRiach 15: Tawny Port Cask Finish' from their 'Wood Finishes' range.
Swirling the dram around the bulb, its "Natural Colour", a copper hue like a freshly minted penny, appears dense and creamy, with legs like Charlize Theron. Coconut, honey, and fresh sawdust on the nose at first, later skewing towards a deep, toasted oak aroma. Stewed fruit richness with an undercurrent of caramelized sugar couples with just the right hint of bitter cacao and cinnamon spice for balance. More herbal than floral. A slightly smoky, soft leather aroma opened up eventually on the nose, making me wish my barstool was a fireside wingback with matching ottoman. I think I finally understand aromatherapy now. Fantastic.
Taking a sip, even before the flavors hit my palate, the malt's plush velvet texture announced its presence. Warm butterscotch pudding was my first impression on the palate. Getting sweeter and more fruit over time. Medjool dates, figs, brown sugar, cinnamon. The oak arrived and made its way to the forefront. The tawny port casks in which the malt is finished are standard wine hogsheads, 238.5 L (250 L standard for beer); much more intimate than a 600 L sherry butt. All that extra surface area for interaction between the malt and oak makes it taste even older than its 15 year age-statement.
At 46% ABV, there would no need to chill filter BenRiach 15, but the label seeks to reassure its consumer anyway. You would never know this had an extra punch of ethanol over the more common 40-43% ABV in Speyside malts. No sting whatsoever on the long finish. Instead, a satisfying coat of lingering smoke and oak. Smooth and sturdy as a pool table, excellent balance, and a nice touch of complexity. This one is certainly in the running for my favorite Speyside malt (top 3 no question), and I now can't wait to try some of BenRiach's other offerings, maybe a peated expression next time.
Overall Grade: 95/100, solid A
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