Tuesday, November 18, 2014

GLENLIVET 12



If Glenfiddich is the Coca-Cola of the scotch world, Glenlivet is clearly its Pepsi. Although you won't need to blindfold mall walkers to see if they can taste the difference, it's pretty obvious. It is often referred to often as 'the Glenlivet' (glen-LIV-it), which always sounds like a pretentious affectation to me ('the Macallan' does it too). Because it is also the name of a place, it may have something to do with early competitors also using the name, but still - don't be that guy.

The Glenlivet Distillery is the world's second-best selling scotch whisky manufacturer, and number one here in the United States. The self-proclaimed "single malt that started it all" was the first to apply for and receive legal status as a distillery after the Excise Act of 1823, having operated illegally before the new law went into effect. The distillery was originally owned and run by George Smith and later his son, John Gordon 'J.G.' Smith; however after a series of mergers and acquisitions, it has since been in corporate hands, and today is owned by French liquor giant, Pernot Ricard. The whisky not sold as single malts is used in Pernod's blended brands, such as Chivas Regal.

Glenlivet is another mainstay Speyside malt, situated near Ballindollach in Moray, in the parish of Glenlivet. It does not have its own malting floor, but rather purchases its malted Scottish barley from Crisp Maltings in Portgordon. During distillation in lantern-shaped wash and spirit stills, 7 of each, their long, skinny Swan's Necks are said to be responsible for its lighter taste. Their products are first aged in former bourbon casks, then some are finished in sherry or port casks, just like many other Speyside malts.

So you've already tasted the Glenfiddich 12, and you may be thinking that other than the water source and maybe the different shapes of the copper pot stills, the two sound pretty much the same, right? You'll notice differences before it even hits your lips. Give it a good swirl and take a big whiff...

The color is lighter, and the viscosity thinner. More spice this time - cinnamon, nutmeg, smells like Christmas. Vanilla. Honey. I'm trying to figure out the fruit... definitely citrus, but a little more abrasive. It's driving me crazy, I have to cheat and read the review from 'Master of Malt'...Pineapple?

Taking a nip, there's a tangible tartness, like a Granny Smith apple. Grassier, too. A slight bitter edge like fresh arugula. Glenlivet uses a malt dried without peat smoke, so more of the grain flavor comes through. I certainly taste the alcohol, even though its the same 40% ABV. I added a splash of water and tried again, now I can taste the citrus coming though. It has a warming, long finish, but it seems to have sucked out all the moisture in my mouth as it went down. There's a fine line between smooth and boring... and this is neither.

I have had Glenlivet 12 many times before sitting down and trying to pinpoint what I thought of it, and a couple of times since, and despite what might sound like a negative review, I do enjoy it. You can find the stuff anywhere in Richmond, even in airplane bottles for $3.50 if you don't want to spring $45 for the whole fifth. It's a crowd pleasing starter whisky that despite being so similar in construction to Glenfiddich, really showcases how differently single malts can turn out.

Overall Grade: 83/100, B-



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