Monday, November 17, 2014

GLENFIDDICH 12


I had previously proposed a hypothetical single malt enthusiast 'starter kit' that would include 12 year old bottles of Glenfiddich, Glenlivet, and Macallan, so discussing the big boys seems like a good place to start. These three (in order) are the best selling single malt brands worldwide, and any bar or restaurant in Richmond with a liquor license will offer at least one of them. However, like lighting a campfire with a Duraflame log, this is a safe and easy starting point, but not likely to excite anybody.

Glenfiddich (glen-FID-dick, often mispronounced glen-FID-ditchlisten to actor and Scotsman Brian Cox say it) is basically the Coca-Cola of single malt scotch, accounting for 30-35% of sales worldwide thanks to some savvy business maneuvering and marketing masterstrokes. A relative latecomer to scotch production, the Glenfiddich Distillery was established in the heart of Speyside by William Grant in 1886 in Dufftown, in the glen of the River Fiddich (hence the name, which translates to 'Valley of the Deer' from Scottish Gaelic). The distillery has stayed in the family for five generations and counting, known as William Grant & Sons, Ltd., one of Scotland's last independent distillers (but they also own lots of other liquor brands).

During the years of Prohibition in the United States, Glenfiddich bucked prevailing wisdom and increased its production, anticipating high demand once the law was repealed. The gamble paid off big time, making them a globally significant player. Falling on lean times during the 1960s and '70s, Glenfiddich once again boosted production, targeted the ever expanding Duty Free shopping market, invented the cardboard tubes seen on nearly all scotch bottles on shelves, opened a visitor's center at their distillery and in 1963 developed the first marketing campaigns for their 'single malt scotch', effectively creating the whole new category of whiskys we now know and love.

The Glenfiddich Distillery is also known for its smaller copper pot stills and in-house cooperage for making its own casks. The water source used in production are the Robbie Dhu Springs, the only distillery to use a single source of spring water for every phase of their production process. The unique bottles with their trademark triangular shape feature a stag as a nod to the 'Valley of the Deer'. The 12 year old expression is aged in American oak bourbon casks and Spanish sherry butts, and runs about $45 at Virginia ABC stores, about $8 a dram at Richmond area restaurants. Or you can just wait for your neighbor's Christmas party; that bastard still has your leaf blower.

Taking in a big whiff of Glenfiddich 12, I get oak, floral, and honey notes. Nothing overpowering, just subtle. Speyside malts are known for their fruity notes. Pear, perhaps? No real smoke to speak of, no ethanol sting, just clean (some will say bland). The color is a golden amber, with decent legs upon swirling. I can't confirm if it has been chill-filtered or not, but as much as their website touts the non-chill filtered 15 year old, I have to assume this stuff has been through it.

The first sip hits the taste buds, and I am reminded how light and smooth, almost creamy, this is compared to the malts I've been favoring lately. Sweeter too, like butterscotch. Wait... is butterscotch made from scotch? Why has that never occurred to me before? Little bit of spice, just enough to mention it. There is just enough balance and depth of flavor there to satisfy an experienced scotch drinker, but they will probably make you try something more complex when it's their turn to buy a round. The description that comes to mind most often is clean.

The finish is slightly oily, which I find warming and helps it linger on the palate a while. Even drinking it neat, there's no real burn from the 40% ABV, perhaps because it is slightly lower than most. Very mellow, borderline tame. All in all, Glenfiddich 12 is a great starter whisky from which to build a frame of reference as you move on to others. I look forward to the opportunity to try the 15, 18, and 21 year old expressions (remember, I'm a newbie too, I just have a few years' head start).

Overall grade: 84/100, solid B



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