DALMORE 12

'Snowmaggedon'. 'Snowpocalypse', 'The Blizzard of 2016'... Call it what you will, but eighteen inches of fluffy white chaos were on their way to wreak havoc on Virginia. As soon as Richmonders turned on the morning weather report to hear [Nikki-Dee Ray/Andrew Frieden/Matt DiNardo] utter those panic inducing words, "heavy snow", we all ransacked the grocery stores like 'Doomsday Preppers'. More than a few of us popped into the ABC store as well.

If empty shelf space is any indication, Richmond really likes its vodka. It looked like the 'Absolut Bandit' had just struck the place. The scotch aisle too was picked over, but not quite as decimated. Of the leftover stock, I could only find two single malts that I had yet to taste, Tamdhu 10 and Dalmore 12. Intrigued by the sherry casked Tamdhu as my potential snowbound elixir, I could not ignore the fact that Dalmore was $20 cheaper, money which could be spent restocking the beer fridge as well.

I generally try not to pay too much attention to packaging, but Dalmore has obviously put forth some effort on this. Its sturdy crimson box has substantial thickness and texture, which for me at least harkens back to my containers of treasured childhood keepsakes (yearbooks, swim meet medals, Matchbox cars, etc.). The trademark stag head embossed on the bottle is a cool touch as well. The color of the whisky inside is a deep reddish orange hue, giving of the appearance of a much older malt. If nothing else, Dalmore 12 is an impressive whisky to look at.

I did some exposition on the Dalmore Distillery (Inverness, northern Highlands) in an earlier post on their Cigar Malt Reserve expression, so no need to rehash. As a result of my research on that one, I did read a little about the 12 already. The consensus seemed to be it was sweet and orangey; however, the malt was fundamentally revamped in 2008, which may change things up a bit. Since then, the distillers aged the new make in bourbon casks for 9 years, then splitting the malt so that 50% remains in the bourbon casks, the other 50% matured in oloroso sherry casks, then reintroduced after a further three years.

Sure enough, sparkling citrus zest on the nose first and foremost. Every morning, I peel a clementine for each of my kids' lunches and can still smell its essential oils an hour later. I know that smell. That orange liqueur note shovels the driveway, then holds the door open while the other aromas take off their shoes. A rich brown ale maltiness is apparent, as is freshly brewed coffee. A touch of hardwood smoke and spice opened up after a few minutes. So far, perfect as a winter malt.

The palate was much heavier on the sherry than I expected, tasting richer and older than many of its 12 year old Highland contemporaries. Together with the orange, I could have been convinced it had spent some time in a sangria cask. A chocolatey note complemented the orange character, perhaps toning down the bite of the citrus a bit. Full-bodied malt, but perhaps because of its depth of color I was expecting a creamier, thicker consistency. The thin consistency makes for a warming, albeit shorter, oaky finish.

I would certainly agree with the orangey reputation of Dalmore 12, but would not go so far as to tag it a dessert scotch. I had many opportunities to enjoy it over this four day snowbound staycation, although I was a dealt a painful reminder that the only way to make clearing 18 inches of snow from your driveway less fun...is a hangover,


Overall Grade: 87/100, B+

Slàinte Mhath! Happy Burns Night! 

p.s. This evening, January 25th, is Burns Night in Scotland, the yearly celebration of Scottish national poet Robert Burns. The general idea is to recite poetry among friends and family over a traditional dinner of haggis, 'bashed neeps', and whisky. Kilts are appropriate (and yes, the kilted Scottish military is why they call it 'going commando', not some 'Friends' episode). I'll be skipping the haggis this year ('Meatless Monday', you know), but I'll be sure to tip back a dram this evening, Dalmore or otherwise.

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