Monday, November 9, 2015

SHOW ME THE WAY TO THE NEXT WHISKY BAR


"Richmond deserves recognition as the modern cultural capital of the South." Men's Journal
"Readers voted Richmond, Virginia, the nation's most liveable river town." Outside
"Best Places to Travel in 2016: #3 Richmond, Virginia" Travel+Leisure
"Richmond: The Next Great American Food City" Departures
"Where to Travel For Food in 2016: Richmond, Virginia, US" National Geographic

Pardon the chest thumping over my town, but Richmond does have a lot going for it these days. I don't get to enjoy it as much as I'd like to, not by a long shot. However, when my wife and I do go out, we tend to pick restaurants based on the food, not the booze. A kick ass scotch selection is always a bonus, but usually not the focus. I should probably mention Virginia doesn't have traditional bars. ABC laws require establishments that serve alcohol to also sell food, so what you get are restaurants with bars. Even strip clubs advertise their buffets ('Legs and Eggs' Sunday brunch, anyone?). Oops, sidetracked already...


My point was that when my wife and I do actually get to leave the house sans children, there is usually a restaurant involved. Preferably one with a conspicuous lack of family friendly concessions, intriguing menu, conversation piece decor, and a glorious shiny bar tended by at least two people, one of whom is inevitably mustachioed.

For sure, Richmond has its fair share of mixologists and craft brewers, but I also try to keep track of places around town with a wide selection of single malt scotch. By no means is this an attempt at an exhaustive list. I may update it as I see fit, and welcome suggestions if I have egregiously neglected your favorite. The following are my local picks which offer up at least 10 different single malts:


McCormack's Whisky Grill & Smokehouse - 204 N. Robinson Street, RVA
McCormack's Big Whisky Grill - 1420 N. Parham Road, RVA

Richmond's whisky nirvana, plain and simple. The original Robinson Street location in the Fan has over 750 bottles of liquor stacked up so high, a sliding library ladder is necessary to get to the top few shelves. If you think that's impressive, check out the newer, much larger West End incarnation with over 900 bottles just of whisk(e)y. 2,300 bottles of liquor overall at last count. This second location was opened in 2014 in the former Texas de Brazil location at Regency Square, co-owned by namesake Mac McCormack and Lamb of God drummer Chris Adler.

The available single malt scotches take up the first two full pages of the epic menu, even listed in tiny phone book font. That, plus the conspicuous lack of the letter 'e' in the name, leads me to believe that scotch is their primary focus. I have yet to visit the Big location, saving it for a special occasion, but just yesterday I was invited to their 6 course Balvenie tasting dinner later this month. Um...that'll work! If not then, they do host 'Whisky School' events every Tuesday night 7:30pm. With the ludicrously extensive selection at either location, you might pay a little more for your dram, but the Fan location does offer a 10% discount if you pay in cash.


New York Deli - 2920 W. Cary Street, RVA

New York Deli has two claims to fame: Richmond's oldest restaurant (est. 1929) and the birthplace of the 'sailor sandwich' (1943). For a while there, it was also RVA's hub of activity on New Year's Eve thanks to their ball-dropping ceremony atop the adjacent Byrd Theatre. Behind the bar, under locked glass, a bookshelf worth of single malts are showcased, some with their own engraved pedestals (respect!). Easily a dozen, maybe even 15-20 single malts for your consideration. This place was a late find for me (for scotch at least, not sandwiches), as they carry many of the malts I have only seen maybe one or two other places (e.g. Bunnahabhain, Cragganmore, Jura, Glenkinchie, etc.).


Rappanhannock - 320 E. Grace Street, RVA

In the last decade, the revitalization and subsequent rise to prominence of the Virginia oyster industry has put us in a league with Maryland's crabs and Maine's lobsters. A significant portion of the credit for the oyster's resurgence in the Chesapeake can be attributed to the Croxton family and their juggernaut Rappahannock Oyster Company, which has recently forayed into the restaurant business.

Two of their establishments with which I am familiar are Merroir and Rappahannock. Merroir is an outdoor 'tasting room' on the south bank of the Rappahannock River, near the Croxtons' oyster beds in Topping, VA. Although Merroir is a fantastic experience in its own right, perhaps our interest in scotch can be piqued closer to home at Rappahannock.

In my book, no food pairs with scotch better than oysters (maybe steak?), no liquor pairs better with oysters than scotch. Happy hour half shells are $1 apiece, and November is prime oyster season. Their trademark Rappahannocks are buttery and sweet, but the brinier Stingray Points and Olde Salts are more my speed. Why yes, I'd like grilled Billy Bread with that. Oh right, and scotch...

There is a four sided column in the middle of the bar with two shelves, the upper of which is stocked on three sides with probably 12-15 different single malts. It does put you in the awkward position of having to circumnavigate the entire restaurant, squinting from afar to take it all in. Islay malts in particular are featured, which would be my choice for slurping down with my chilled bivalves. I counted three single malts I had yet to try, as good a reason as any to go back soon.


Can Can Brasserie - 3120 W. Cary Street, RVA

Say what you want about the French, but you have to admire a culture that can make snails decadent, cheese divine, and bikini tops optional. Perhaps most of all, the French know how to drink. They put away 12 L pure alcohol per capita per year (#3 in the world, USA is #22 at 8.6 L), and we're not talking jello shots either. but quality drinking. Their wine is the standard by which others are measured, not to mention their brandy and cognac. It's not by accident the terms liqueur, aperitif, digestif, and creme de [whatever] are all French in origin. In addition to their own prowess in booze production, they are still Scotland's #2 importer of malt whisky (USA #1!). They have a taste for the high life for sure.

I won't pretend to know how authentically French Can Can actually is (as long as it tastes good, who cares?), though I can vouch for their single malt selections. Perhaps 15 or more choices line an entire shelf of their enormous bar, some of which are not even listed on their menu. It can get pretty packed in there at times, but it makes for good people watching while you order moules frites at the bar and sip your way through their collection.


Havana '59 - 16 N. 17th Street, RVA

If you're a history buff, or at least saw 'Godfather II', you will recognize the titular reference to pre-revolution Cuba and the inexhaustible proliferation of ironic Che Guevara t-shirts that followed. A fantastically decorated three-story, open-air Cuban-themed restaurant with rooftop seating and weekly salsa dancing, there is likely not a better selection in town of high end rum. Good thing for us they like scotch too.

Havana's does periodically host "scotch tasting and cigar pairing" events, and has done so with visiting representatives from Glenmorangie, Glenlivet, and Macallan (as well as Jameson's Irish whiskey). The 'cigar pairing' aspect is just not my thing. In fairness though, we are talking about a Cuban restaurant in Richmond, Virginia, headquarters of Phillip Morris (er, I mean Altria). Smoke 'em if you got 'em, I suppose. I'll be stealing your seat at the scotch table.


Penny Lane Pub - 421 E. Franklin Street, RVA

There is no shortage of Irish-inspired pubs in Richmond, but a legitimate British one is hard to come by. I have yet to visit the brand new White Horse Tavern on the Southside (update - already closed, never mind), but you really can't go wrong with the original RVA landmark, Penny Lane Pub.

The owner is a congenial former Liverpudlian footballer, Terry O'Neill. Beatles music plays constantly in the background (hence the name), driving home the Liverpool connection. The menu, decor, and tap selection are as authentically British as a pint o' bitters. Rarely is there not a Premier League match on the tele. Of course they have scotch (actually, around Brits you can just call it whisky).

I was handed a list of maybe 15 single malts (plus more on the shelves), all reasonably priced as far as scotch goes, and noticed several of the bottles upside down hooked up to taps. I had already tried each one on the list, but went with a previous favorite, Talisker, then settled in to watch Manchester United v. Aston Villa play a rare Friday match. Two sips in I noticed Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14, an untried malt for me, sitting on the shelf. Next time, I suppose.


The Boathouse at Rockett's Landing - 4708 E. Old Main Street, RVA
The Boathouse at Sunday Park - 4602 Millridge Parkway, Midlothian, VA
The Boathouse at Short Pump - 11800 W. Broad Street, Unit #950, RVA

The Boathouse has three locations throughout the Richmond metropolitan area (a fourth is on the way in Hopewell, VA), with three very different personalities. The Rockett's Landing location is the one of interest to the single malt crowd (crowd being the operative word). With its impressive array of single malts at various ages and expressions, extensive menu, and panoramic view of the downtown skyline and the James River, this is the perfect place to take a date who likes scotch and can read lips.

One of only two places in town with a better view than Rockett's Landing is the Boathouse's original location at Sunday Park (the other is Legend Brewery Co.). This one has more the neighborhood vibe (the only location with a kids menu), but features a sizeable outdoor complex of decks and a panoramic view of the Swift Creek Reservoir. It's essentially RVA's scaled down version of The Oasis (Austin, TX). Three full bars on the premises, possibly more. Last I was there, they did have a few standard single malts, as well as the Virginia Distilling Company's Highland Malt Whisky, but this location caters more to the dockside seabreeze/mojito set. No better place in Richmond to watch the sunset, sailboats and ducks going by, usually live music going on. People get married here.

Their third location recently opened in the malltropolis of Short Pump, essentially guaranteeing I will never go there, despite its rave review from Style Weekly.



Yes, I know about The Pig and Pearl and their 27 single malts, but I haven't been there yet. Give me time, people (I told you I don't get out much)! Until then, let me offer up for your consideration a notable establishment well worth a road trip:


Jack Rose Dining Saloon - 2007 18th St. NW, Washington DC

With 2,390 whisk(e)ys and counting, the restaurant with one of the largest collections in the Western Hemisphere is a (theoretically) two hour drive north up I-95 (for the record, Pints Pub in Denver lays claim to the largest single malt scotch menu outside the UK). Other than the Smithsonian-caliber whisk(e)y collection in the main 'Dining Saloon' room, there are several smaller rooms that can be rented out for private parties of up to 200 people, including a tiki bar (um... Island scotch, anyone?). Unadvertised, but featured on the Esquire Network's 'Best Bars in America' series, there is also a secret passageway to a downstairs speakeasy bar, Dram and Grain (reservations only, dammit).



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