After a weekend basking in the surreal spectacle of Richmond hosting the UCI Road World Championships (the third race of cycling's 'Triple Crown' along with the Tour de France and Giro d' Italia), during which I had my pleasant experience with Japan's most popular single malt whisky, Yamazaki 12, I got to thinking about all the other countries putting their own unique spin on my favorite Scottish export. Some countries, Japan in particular, can rival some of the best master distillers sporting a kilt. Others, maybe we'll indulge for the sake of curiosity. Let's start with the most obvious:
IRELAND
The ancestral home of uisge beatha, malt whisk(e)y as we know it. The laws and traditions associated with Irish single malts are essentially in line with those of scotch whisky. The biggest difference (besides the extra 'e') is the tradition of Irish triple distillation versus Scottish double distillation (although there are exceptions both ways), supposedly imparting a smoother flavor. Peat smoke is rarely used in Irish whiskey, so fair warning to the hard-nosed Islay adherents. The Irish do have an extra category not seen in scotch, single pot still whiskey, combining malted and unmalted (green) barley, triple distilled in pot stills within a single distillery, and supposedly imparting a more intense barley flavor. For such a close resemblance to scotch whisky, it might be surprising to hear that although Scotland boasts 107 working distilleries at last count, Ireland has a mere twelve (only three of which were established prior to 2007).
Examples: Bushmills (10, 16, 21), Connemara Peated Malt (Regular, Cask Strength, 12), Glendalough (7, 13) , The Irishman Single Malt, Locke's 8, Tullamore Dew 10, Tyrconnell, Teeling, Dunville's Very Rare 10, Knappogue Castle (12, 14), Jack Ryan's Begger's Bush 12, Hyde 10 No. 1 President's Cask, Wild Geese, Clontarf, Cooley (12 'peated', 15), Erin Go Bragh 6, Jameson's 12
ENGLAND and WALES
England took an inexplicably long time (2006) to get into the single malt whisky game, but seems off to a bang-up start with the not-so-creatively named English Whisky Co. from St. George's Distillery. Many of their expressions have already sold out, and its reviews are consistently superb. Another English distillery/brewery, Adnams, has released a 3 year old malt which supposedly smells and tastes like bubble gum. Well...that's different.
The current state of Welsh malt whisky can be summarized in one word: Penderyn. Despite just the one distillery, there are numerous single malt expressions available including some aged in former Islay casks. Penderyn malts are said to be very thick and sweet, even chocolatey, and reviews are generally stellar.
UNITED STATES of AMERICA
American single malt whisky is not as prevalent as you might think, given the sheer volume we import from Scotland and Ireland. Bourbon (or corn whiskey at least) is still king by a long shot. There are few rules governing American single malts, so it can get a little creative/blasphemous (depending on your viewpoint) with the interpretation. 287 Whiskey (Elmsford, NY), Long Island Spirits' Pine Barrens (Baiting Hollow, NY), and Uprising (South Kingston, RI) are all actually distilled from finished beer. There is no minimum aging period, and the mash only has to be 51% malted barley, though many respectfully use 100%.
American distilleries are required to age new make in unused oak barrels. Not a problem for bourbon or rye, but new oak can play hell on malt flavor without first seasoning the casks. THEA|One is a sort of smart cask, "aging reactor" in the parliance of Lost Spirits Distillery (Monterrey, CA), used in their 110ppm phenol peat monster, Leviathan. Analysis and manipulation of chemical composition and environmental conditions tailor the distillate to meet any specification, and claims to produce a 20 year old spirit in 6-8 days. Ladies and gentlemen, the "21st Century Barrel".
Call me a purist, but I was more impressed with Balcones Texas Single Malt Whiskey, distilled "under a bridge in Waco, Texas" earning Caskstrength's annual title Best in Glass 2012 in a blind taste test over every malt in the field, Scottish or otherwise. Don't mess with Texas.
Other Examples: Virginia Distillery Company (Lovingston, VA), Wasmund's (Sperryville, VA), Stranahan's (Denver, CO), Defiant (Bostic, NC), St. George (Alameda, CA), Westland (Seattle, WA), Westward (Portland, OR), Colkegan (Santa Fe, NM), Hillrock (Hudson Valley, NY), Old Portero 11 (San Francisco, CA, by the makers of Anchor Steam beer), Cut Spike (La Vista, NB...wait, Nebraska?), Cedar Ridge (Swisher, IA), Swift (Dripping Springs, TX), Corsair Triple Smoke (Nashville, TN), McCarthy's (Portland, OR)
CANADA
Oh, Canada. You're so damn nice that people are bound to try walking all over you, eh. The Glenora Distillery (which also serves an inn) has had nothing but trouble with their Glen Breton Rare 10 all on account of its name. The malt overlords at the Scotch Whisky Association have kept these Canucks neck deep in international trademark litigation solely because the term 'Glen' supposedly connotes Scottishness and is therefore misleading to consumers, Nevermind that its label features a Canadian maple leaf flag and deliberately omits the term 'scotch', its webpage calls it "North America's 1st single malt whisky", and lastly that Nova Scotia literally means 'New Scotland'. It seems relevant to mention the malt in question appeared in a book entitled "101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die" (Ian Buxton, 2010). Of course, Canadian whisky is a category all unto itself, with rye and corn as the principal grains, and a long history of world class blended whisky brands even teetotalers have heard of. Single malts are a rarity for them.
JAPAN
It is not a coincidence that the Japanese single malts are sold alongside the bona fide scotch at the ABC store. Single malt whisky in the Scottish tradition has always been the focus with Japanese distillers since 1923. Not simply copycatting Scotland, but rather inspired by the elemental purity and discipline of their treatment of malted barley, as well as a reverence for tradition and mastery. At some point, the science and art of single malt whisky production struck a cord in Japanese culture. It has been paying serious dividends lately, as the reputation of Japanese single malts and blended whiskys are considered to be equal, and in some cases arguably superior, to their Scottish counterparts. Apparently, bourbon is next as the Japanese recently purchased Jim Beam and Maker's Mark.
Examples: Yamazaki (12, 18, 25), Hakusku (12, 18, 25), Yoichi, Miyagiko
AUSTRALIA and NEW ZEALAND
The Aussies are no slouches in the whisk(e)y department either. Sullivan's Cove French Oak Cask earned the 2014 World Whiskies Award, the first time the honor had gone to a distillery outside of Scotland or Japan. Ten of Australia's 29 whisky distilleries are concentrated on the island of Tasmania, the so-called Tasmanian Whisky Trail. The temperate climate there is more amenable to distilling malt whisky than the harsher conditions of the mainland. It is commonly said their single malts are better known elsewhere in the world than in their own country. The blokes Down Under also have a fair amount of distilleries producing American style whiskies, including sour mash and rye, as well as producers of wheat whisky and even a hopped variety.
On the South Island of New Zealand, the now shuttered Willowbank Distillery produced an impressive array of single malt expressions and alternative caskings. The remaining stock was purchased in 2010 by the New Zealand Whisky Company, and have become highly sought-after (read: expensive) collectables. More recently on the North Island, Thomson's began distilling single malts smoked with native mānuka, and are currently cask aging before they can be released.
Other Examples: AUSTRALIA - Lark, Hellyers Road, Nant, Limeburners, Bakery Hill, Overeem, Castle Glen, Corowa Whisky & Chocolate, Fanny's Bay, Joadja, Starward, Mount Uncle's 'The Big Black Cock' (gotta love Aussie humor), Trapper's Hut, Three Capes, John Christie's. Timboon; NEW ZEALAND - South Island Single Malt (18, 21, 23), Lammerlaw, Milford
INDIA
Indian single malt whisky is also typically produced in the Scottish tradition with one notable exception - aging. The 'angel's share', or the 2% loss to evaporation per year through porous cask aging in Scotland, averages 12% per year in the much hotter Indian climate. The result is a much shorter aging period. They do enforce the 3 year minimum, though there are rarely age statements advertised. Less aging = less maturation of flavors = very sweet, malty whisky. Still, a 4 to 6 year old Indian malt should have more flavor development than one aged for the same period in Scotland.
Examples: Amrut, Paul John, Sikkim Old Gold
*DISCLAIMER: Many of the links found beyond this point connect to webpages written in language other than English. Try to read them anyway. you might actually learn something...
SCANDINAVIA
If the windswept Highlands of Scotland are ideal for distilling malt whisky, why not the mountainous icy tundra further north? Sweden and Finland in particular are hotbeds for distilleries, already well known for vodka, but also producing a respectable amount of malt whisky. Svenska Eldvatten (translates to 'Swedish Firewater') actually releases expressions labeled 'single malt scotch whisky'. distilled and casked by an unnamed Islay distillery "from the Kildalton Coast" (narrowing it down to Lagavulin, Laphroaig, and Ardbeg). The law requiring bottling take place in Scotland in order to be called 'scotch' was not in place until November 2012.
Other Examples: SWEDEN - Mackmyra (also makers of Motörhead's single malt whisky), Spirit of Hven, Smögen; FINLAND - Teerenpeli
CONTINENTAL EUROPE
Some of the younger (3-8 years old) Scottish and Irish malts sell well on the Continent, especially in Italy, so much so that distilleries develop off-brands specifically for the 'international market' (e.g. Loch Ness, Red Hills). For our purposes here though, we're looking for whisky distilled in their home countries. The really good ones? Mostly French. French barley (a significant export to Scotland), interesting wine and cognac cask finishes in limousin oak, and the climate/geography are all well suited for damn good whisky. Although, there are a few single malt diamonds in the rough found elsewhere.
Blends are far more common throughout Europe, even places like Poland and Latvia producing a respectable (ahem...) quantity. Spain produces a blended whisky with an interesting tweak. Nomad Outland, is made by finishing Scottish blended whisky in freshly emptied sherry butts (normally the casks have been dried before refilling) for an extra punch of flavor, then aged in the warmer climes of Jerez. Could be delicious, after all this is land of kalimotxo, they do know how to make an interesting blend. But that's not what we're going for now, is it?
Other Examples: FRANCE - Brenne, Bastille 1789, Michel Couvreur, Guillon, Armorik, Glan Ar Mor; GERMANY - Blaue Maus, Slyrs, Sonnenschein, Coillmór, Höhler; NETHERLANDS - Millstone, Frysk Hynder; BELGIUM - Goldys; SWITZERLAND - Swissky, Johnett; CZECH REPUBLIC - Hammerhead, Printer's; TURKEY - Ankara 5
REST OF THE WORLD
A few years ago I spent a week in Cape Town, South Africa and remember hearing about Three Ships 10 single malt whisky. It's possible I tried it, some of those evenings were a bit of a blur. Taiwan's King Car Distillery releases numerous single malt expressions under the moniker Kavalan to widespread acclaim. Even Pakistan has a distillery putting out single malt whisky, Murree, releasing both 8 and 12 year old expressions with pretty good reviews. Didn't see that one coming, huh?
THIRSTIEST COUNTRIES
The following is a 2012 list of the top 10 countries in order of scotch whisky importation:
1. USA - £758 million, up 16% from 2011
2. France - £434 million, down 19%
3. Singapore - £339.2 million, up 7%
4. Spain - £195.3 million, down 25%
5. Germany - £168.8 million, up 13%
6. Taiwan - £165.4 million, up 7%
7. South Africa - £161.6 million, down 2%
8. South Korea - £135.7 million, down 7%
9. Venezuela - £102.2 million, no data 2011
10. Mexico - £91.8 million, up 8%
The above numbers do not differentiate between single malts and blends, but worldwide exportation of single malt scotch whisky grew from £268 million to £778 million (up 190%) between 2002 and 2012 according to the Scotch Whisky Association. The liquid volume of whisky exported to the United States actually decreased by 2% between 2011 and 2012, but because of escalating prices, still generated a 16% financial boost. Supply and demand, folks. Better drink up now.
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