Tuesday, December 16, 2014

ABERLOUR 12


Although my wife is abhorrent to the thought of drinking scotch, she does tolerate my fascination with the stuff. On one occasion she has actually purchased a bottle for me as a part of my wedding gift. This would be the first bottle of single malt scotch whisky I ever owned - Aberlour 12.

She had done her homework before picking one out, and ordered it directly from the distillery in Scotland. I was extremely appreciative of her gesture and efforts, and I remember finding it delicious when toasting with my groomsmen. In retrospect, it's too bad I didn't know more about appreciating the actual whisky at a time long before I stopped ordering simply, "Scotch. Rocks." It was the nicest scotch I'd ever had at that point in my life, I just didn't know why.

I had mixed feelings about getting another bottle more than ten years later. I still carried a fond memory of it for sentimental reasons, and now with a more experienced palate, I didn't want to be disappointed. The fact that I'm posting my review of it obviously means I eventually relented, and spoiler alert - my wife had gotten it right (she usually does).

For me, Aberlour (abba-LOU-er) is the quintessential Speyside whisky. Fruity with a hit of spice, velvety smooth, oaky from bourbon and sherry double casking, complex and sublime. The name is Scottish Gaelic for 'mouth of the chattering burn', which sounds like a dental emergency, but it actually has to do with the mouth of a running stream. The picturesque distillery lies near the exact center of the Speyside region, yet they curiously label it as Highland. Apparently this is a holdover from the days when Speyside was considered a sub-region within the recognized Highland category (much like 'Island' malts today). I am still baffled why this matters so much. I found it more interesting that the Aberlour 12 is the best-selling single malt scotch in a country that knows its liquor better than most - France.

Swirling it around the Glencairn glass, the deep red-orange color is reminiscent of some of my favorite amber lagers (COTU's Chin Music or Strangeways' GWAR Blood) more so than any other 12 year old scotch I can think of. From the nose I'm getting winesap apples. If that seems oddly specific, the aroma takes me up to Carter Mountain in late October, when the winesaps are one of the last apples to ripen. It has an autumnal aura, one that makes you want to put on corduroys and jump in a leaf pile. Maybe a trace of oak smoke from the charred casks, not peaty in the slightest. There's also a soft, new leather aroma. I think it's trying to tell me to sit in the armchair and watch football. Yes, master...

First sip, I didn't taste much of anything. Uh oh. This is what I was afraid might happen. Wait for it... By the second taste, flavors starting landing on my palate like paratroopers from Red Dawn. More berry than citrus. Pear, plum, dried fruit all coming through on the first wave, then ebbing away to a panoply of rich sherry flavors and spice notes. Toffee. Cinnamon, Almond. Ginger. Chocolate. Honey. The sweetness lasts through the long finish but was never overpowering. I did get a weird aftertaste the first dram, like a bitter leather/tobacco note, but never noticed it again in later tastings. This is a perfect dessert scotch. The French are on to something.

I haven't mentioned the blogging to my wife yet. Nor anyone for that matter. It's way more fun to keep it my little secret. Of course she could have an "all work and no play" reaction right out of The Shining. She knows I've been trying different single malts for some time and trying to refine my palate for it, and humors me by asking about it on rare occasions. I will always give her credit for buying me my first single malt (she was years ahead of me as usual), and Aberlour 12 will always be a sentimental favorite.

Overall Grade: 90/100, A-



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