OLD PULTENEY 12

"There can be only one" Highlander of course, but luckily there are a lot of good Highland scotches. I've mentioned Old Pulteney already when talking about the role of climate in cask aging, and more importantly to my fellow scotch newbies, this one is reasonably priced. Not dirt cheap mind you, but at least the cheapest of the good stuff ($43 at Virginia ABC stores, often on sale for under $40), a solid 'second shelf' brand for the budget-minded enthusiast.

Technically, we've tried a Highland malt already, Macallan 12, but we're calling that one a Speyside stylistically if not geographically (it's all in the previous post, I don't feel like rehashing that whole thing). If Speyside malts typically exhibit subtly sweet floral and fruit notes, Highland malts stand out more for their malty tones. My understanding is that with higher elevation, colder year-round storage temperatures, and more unpredictable weather conditions, the aging malt does not develop aromatic ester compounds as much, which are responsible for imparting the fruity notes further south. The malt stands more at the forefront, at least to my palate. Toasted notes, nutty, grassy, heather, biscuity flavors, etc. I'm a beer guy from way back, so maybe this appeals to me like a fruitier Speyside might to a wine person.

Old Pulteney (old PULT-nay), sometimes just 'Pulteney', long claimed to be "the northernmost distillery on the Scottish mainland", being situated in the northeastern coastal town of Wick. A new (resurrection of an old) distillery, Wolfburn, has usurped them in that distinction by setting up shop on the north coast in Thurso, but will not have any whisky available for purchase until 2016. Highland Park and Scapa are further north than both of them, but offshore in the Orkney Islands. Should you tire of searching for plesiosaurs around Loch Ness and decide to venture a day trip up the A9 to John O'Groats, you could pop into a few of these for a quick nip (don't forget Glenmorangie in Tain), but you will notice that the weather is rugged, even by Scottish standards.

In the case of the Pulteney Distillery in particular, the northern seaside climate has a significant impact on the character of the finished whisky. Other than the water source being a stream known as the 'Mill Lade' branching off Loch Hempriggs, which also powers the distillery's grist mill, there's not much info out there about its equipment or methodology until the spirit reaches the cask aging stage. The 12 year old batches mature only in air-dried bourbon casks, no finishing in sherry butts this time, but the big difference here is the salinity of the air.

The self-proclaimed "Maritime Malt" picks up that atmospheric salinity through the slightly porous casks (remember the Angel's Share evaporating from the slightly porous casks?) and just like a pinch of salt, enhances the inherent flavors. Old Pulteney 21 was awarded the coveted 'Whisky of the Year' in Jim Murray's Whisky Bible for 2012. Not just among scotches either, among all manner of all whisk(e)y worldwide. I can't yet justify dropping $130 to get it at the liquor store, but if I see it out on the town, maybe at McCormack's, I'm all over that.

Old Pulteney 12 is no slouch either. Certainly for me, by far the best in its price range. The average scotch novice staring down an aisle of unfamiliar brand names will probably lean towards the cheaper end of the spectrum, and the Old Pulteney 12 would be a lucky find. Even the bottle has a sailor's yarn, modeled after the bottles supposedly favored by pirates (many of whom were Scottish, hence the stereotypical aaargh). Full disclosure - I can't seem to find anything on the internet to verify the bottle story, maybe a bartender told me that. Anyway, crack open that pirate bottle already, no time to aaargue (sorry, I had to).

The color is a deep, rich amber. Some say slightly pink. Ignore those people. The salinity is the primary aroma, like when you first get out of the car after the long drive to the Outer Banks. Smells more herbal than floral, earthy even. Definitely nutty, whichever one is in Honey Nut Cheerios. I've heard people describe it as musty, which doesn't sound positive, and I disagree nonetheless.

Salinity comes through in the flavors as well. Salted caramel is what comes to mind, a nice salty/sweet counterbalance. Malt shines through well enough, a touch of spice and roasted nuts. The Old Pulteney website itself mentions banana, but for the life of me I cannot pick it up.  Light smoke. Wood smoke though, not peat, probably from its time in the charred oak bourbon cask. Medium body with a creamy feel and a long finish.

In the two years or so since I started making an effort to compare and contrast different single malt scotches, I have never bought the same bottle twice. Except this one, I've gone through three. Not by myself mind you, but this is an ideal scotch for a group of friends staying at a beach house or on a fishing trip. Definitely seaworthy.

Overall Grade: 88/100, B+

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